jalapeño strawberry ice cream

In addition to his unnerving aversion to bacon, my partner also dislikes strawberries. And popsicles (???). That, however, does not stop me from buying bacon almost weekly & fresh strawberries whenever I can procure them, and if I had the notion to make popsicles (honey-lavender-yogurt popsicles anyone?), I'd go right ahead. And eat them all myself. Luckily, I am newly enamored of making ice cream. Not popsicles.

His mean distaste for strawberries leaves me with a bit of a problem when it comes to the fresh strawberries I've been buying each week since they came into season. After a winter waiting for fresh berries to bake with, I buy them compulsively. I made a goat cheese and strawberry tart. He picked them off. I made a dark chocolate ganache and strawberry galette--he wouldn't eat it. Almost ready to admit defeat (secretly I believe that I'm such a genius I can make anyone like anything...), I thought maybe he would eat them if they were puréed, that maybe it was a texture thing. I can see how a finicky eater might regard them as, well, slimy. So, in a last ditch attempt to get him to happily ingest strawberries, I decided on ice cream with a strawberry purée swirl.

It's not really in my nature to just make straight up strawberry ice cream. Le yawn. Addicted to counterintuitive flavor combinations that just work, it's surprising to me that I actually hadn't made ice cream before this week. It is a perfect blank canvas for infinite combinations. The first ice cream I made was a honey cardamom ice cream with goat cheese and candied toasted almonds. It was complex yet comforting: all at once nutty, floral, tart, creamy, and sweet. A recipe for it is forthcoming, I promise.

Inspired by the strawberry jalapeño soda I had from Pure Sodaworks last week, I decided on a hot/cold jalapeño strawberry ice cream. I love the mixed message of spicy, cool, and creamy at the same time.

I decided that I wanted more of a jalapeño flavor than would be imparted by merely steeping jalapeños in the base and straining them out. I considered just tossing some chopped jalapeño with sugar and adding it in like nuts at the end of churning. That seemed a little heavy handed to me at the time, but after this attempt, I think I might try it. I like the idea of a crunch that packs a lot of jalapeño flavor. I used both fresh and candied pickled jalapeño with some sugar to make a rough jalapeño sugar purée because I wanted bright green visible specks of peppers in the ice cream. Next time I will use more candied jalapeños, as I wanted more pronounced tartness. The resultant ice cream was actually quite subtle, but not without lots of flavor.

After a springy dinner of risotto with leeks, lemon, and arugula, I served him a bowl of my creation along with a piece of ridiculous (in the best possible way) bittersweet chocolate soufflé. I figured chocolate soufflé could make anything awesome to anyone. (recipe also forthcoming!)

I'll just say, he's not one to be effusive about much of anything. Ever. With the exceptions of Nick Cave, David Bowie, and Romantic poetry. As such, I didn't except much of a response and was prepared to be happy if he ate it, perhaps giving me a satisfied nod. Or perhaps I was prepared to be happy if he hated it so that I could horde it all. But he loved it and he even said so... effusively! He had seconds. Taken with a bite of chocolate soufflé (also laced with cayenne...we like it hot around here), dessert doesn't really get better.

I don't personally consider this a "crazy" flavor combination, but I realize that some people might do some face scrunching/ eye brow raising/ other facial expression of doubt. Just trust me, when I had that soda I knew this combination made sense. Actually before I had that soda I knew it made sense, which is why I ordered said soda. It's fresh, a little grassy, fruity, spicy, cool, and creamy.... it's basically everything I wanted it to be. If my finicky other half will eat it, I think it's safe to say that it's a pretty accessible flavor despite sounding, to some, adventurous.

This recipe is wonderful as is, but I consider it a rough draft, and plan to continue experimenting. Feel free to do the same.

Jalapeño Strawberry Ice Cream

For the Base: 
2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 tsp vanilla extract
healthy pinch of cayenne (optional)

For the Jalapeño Sugar:
1 medium jalapeño seeded and chopped
5 slices candied jalapeño
1/8 cup sugar

For the Strawberry Purée:
(makes about twice as much as you need, I swirled about half in and used the other half as a topping)

1 pint of strawberries (about 1 1/2 cups)
1/8-1/4 cup sugar, depending on your preferred sweetness

In a bowl whisk together the milk, cream, sugar, vanilla, and cayenne until the sugar is dissolved. Chill thoroughly. Once chilled, churn in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturers instructions.

While the ice cream churns make the purées. Combine the ingredients for the jalapeño sugar in the bowl of a food processor (I use a mini for this), and pulse until the jalapeno is very finely chopped. Set aside.

Combine the strawberries and sugar in the food processor and pulse until puréed. Set aside.

In the last five minutes of churning, add in the jalapeño sugar. I also added a pinch of couse sea salt. When the ice cream is done churning pour half into the container you intend to store it in and swirl a quarter of your strawberries into it, just swirling a bit, not turning the whole thing pink. Pour the other half on top and repeat the strawberry swirl. Reserve remaining strawberry sauce to top ice cream or for another use.

Either eat soft serve (my preference) or chill in the freezer until hardened and scoopable.

"real food": food revolution day chattanooga, homemade raw ricotta, garlic scape sorrel pesto, and pesto goat cheese soufflé

the first strawberries of the year are coming in... for tarts, galettes, ice cream at my house

Fair warning: I'm going to indulge some soap box tendencies. Such are the perils of self-publishing. I wish I had an old crone on hand to warn you, croaking something along the lines of "Turn back weary space traveller! Beware! A yawning abyss, a terror...a 20-something with opinions lies ahead...." Alas, I'm fresh out of old crones. Anyway, I digress. Read on at your own risk, you stand warned. 

Here's the thing: real food shouldn't have to be called "real food". It's food. You eat it. With your mouth. It is earthen and innately real: animal, plant, mineral. But a disconnect has happened. More comfortable with a piece of cheese that has both the flavor and texture of the plastic it was wrapped in than with fresh milk, we've become so estranged from our food that we actually have to have conversations about what food even is. I'm pretty sure we can all agree that we don't want to eat homogenous soy/corn filler not unlike what they feed the ill starred animals on large factory farms. So. Food, more people should be eating it. We, the buyers, ultimately control the market. If we won't buy processed filler, they can't sell it.

sunflower shoots from the Market, they taste just like sunflower seeds!

local arugula, shaved radishes, spring onion, and shaved asparagus salad

Between the turn out at Michael Pollan's lecture at the Tivoli this past Thursday (the lecture was vital, pertinent, & funny...get The Omnivore's Dilemma if you don't already have it) and at the Chattanooga Sunday Market's first day of the season (it's biggest day ever), what I believe about Chattanooga is being further confirmed, really what I believe about people everywhere. And what I believe is that we are doing what absolutely must be done: revolutionizing the way we approach food, cooking, and eating.

Which brings me neatly to my next point: Food Revolution Day, a global event designed to raise both funds for food education and awareness about making healthy, ethical food choices. Chattanooga will be participating in Food Revolution Day with the event "Simply Local", which will be held at the Tennessee Aquarium on Saturday, May 19th. The day will be devoted to educating both adults and children on how and why to buy, cook, and eat local. With live cooking demonstrations and educational activities for children, it's about demystifying raw ingredients and food preparation so that the home cook feels comfortable buying and preparing food from the farmer's market. Mostly, it will be about eating awesome, fresh food. Which I'm pretty sure everyone can get down with. You know the old saying, teach a man to make kale chips, and he'll never buy Lays again. Or something like that.

local carrots

Why do I care? Do I care that it's better for the health of all parties concerned (people, animals, the planet itself)? Well, sure. Do I care that it puts money in the hands of my friends and neighbors as opposed to the hands of one of nine corporations that own just about every processed food brand you can think of? Definitely. I mean, is that really a question? Giving money to your own community enriches your life. Giving money to Pepsico and Nestle does...not. It's not going to do anything super fun or very cool for anyone. At all. Save Pepsico and Nestle.

sequatchie cove pork chops for the grill

What really drives my passion for food, at the core, is simply this: flavor. Cooking and eating are quite literally the art of living. Is is the fundamental force that drives us as a species. Nothing happens until we eat. To create, we must first be fed. A cook is only as good as their ingredients. As Thomas Keller said, "If I can get a better product than the chef right next to me, I'm going to be a better chef." I'm personally invested in this matter. I'm not a neutral party. Along with photography and the written word, cookery & baking are my chosen medium, the culinary arts, if you will. As such, I want my materials, as a cook, to be the best I can get. Fresh food produced sustainably and humanely tastes better. That is the bottom line.

farm fresh egg from Alexzanna Farms, fried in a biscuit cutter

I'm not an "ism" person. What I believe in is simple: honesty (most importantly with ourselves), willingness, and open mindedness. In this life we must be willing to examine and reevaluate our old ideas lest we stagnate. To stop learning is a dangerous and terribly boring thing. Whether you identify as vegan, vegetarian, locavore, flexitarian, gluten free, paleo, omnivore...what have you... mindfulness in all that we do, including how we purchase and prepare the foods of our choosing, makes for a life with infinitely more texture and beauty, one we will not regret having lived.

the chives I'm growing (still alive for now!) on my front porch

I don't think that the odd bite of junk food is going to kill you or bring about the fall of civilization, nor do I think it's ill advised to purchase a beautiful cheese from the Pacific Northwest or jamon Iberico from Spain or any other artisan product from wherever else. We, at this point in history, do live in a global community, and I avidly support artisans and sustainable practices around the world. But the fact remains that this starts at home, and that when it comes to meat, dairy, and produce local is going to be, nine times out of ten or more, superior. This isn't about being neurotic, and it isn't about moral superiority. It's about flavor, health, balance, relationships, and living artfully. It's about savoring.

garlic scapes from the Main Street Market

If you made it through all of that (or scrolled quickly to the bottom), your reward is a recipe for homemade ricotta (the easiest of homemade cheeses), a recipe for garlic scape & sorrel pesto, and a recipe for pesto & chevre soufflé.. I'd never had garlic scapes before these. It's a pity their season is so terribly brief. If you see them, buy them. If I'd known how much I would fall in love with these tender, spicy garlic stalks, I would have bought more of them. I chose to make pesto with them because of its versatility. I mixed it with the ricotta and topped homemade pizzas with it, and I stirred the rest along with some Humble Heart farms chevre into a soufflé base. We both agreed it was one of the best soufflés I've made to date. And I've been making a lot lately. If I'd had the chance to cook more of them I would have tried them grilled and roasted. Oh, and I did eat one raw, like a carrot. It was delicious.

Homemade Raw Milk Ricotta

adapted from Smitten Kitchen

4 cups whole milk (I use raw)
1/2 tsp sel gris (or other course sea salt)
3 T freshly squeezed lemon juice

Heat the milk in a non-reactive sauce pan to 190 degrees F. I use a candy thermometer to monitor the temperature. Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. Remove from heat, add lemon juice, and stir a couple of times gently. Let sit five minutes.

Line a colander with butter muslin or a couple of layers of cheese cloth and set over a bowl. Pour the curds and whey into the colander and let strain until desired consistency is reached.

Garlic Scape & Sorrel Pesto

1 cup chopped garlic scapes
2 cups chopped sorrel
1/3 cup toasted pine nuts
1/3 cup freshly grated parmesan
juice of half a lemon
1/2 cup good olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

In a food processor pulse first five ingredients, scraping down the sides as necessary. Slowly add in the olive oil until blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Can be frozen. I like to freeze my pesto in an ice cube tray, pop them out once frozen, and keep the individual portions in a freezer bag. This is a great way to make short lived spring produce last!

Pesto & Chevre Soufflé

adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child

5 eggs, room temperature - it is best to use older eggs in a soufflé, not super fresh eggs
          4 yolks, 5 whites
1 cup whole milk
3 T butter, plus 1 tsp for buttering the soufflé mold
2 T finely grated parmesan, for dusting
3 T flour
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper
1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
healthy pinch of cayenne
pinch of cream of tartar
1/3 cup crumbled goat cheese
1/3 cup garlic scape & sorrel pesto (or pesto of your choosing)

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Divide your eggs, setting aside one of the yolks for another use. Butter your soufflé mold and sprinkle with the parmesan, tilting to coat both the bottom and sides. Coat well, as this butter-cheese coating is what will keep your soufflé from sticking.

Melt 3 T butter over medium heat in a non-reactive sauce pan. Warm the milk until just steaming. Once the butter has melted, while the milk is heating up, add the 3 T of flour to the butter and stir to combine. Let it bubble over medium heat 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent browning. Slowly pour in the hot milk, whisking constantly. Continue to cook on medium one minute more, whisking constantly. The béchamel should be quite thick. Remove from heat and stir in salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cayenne. Whisk the egg yolks, one at a time, into the center of your sauce. Set aside.

Whip your egg whites with the pinch of cream of tartar and a pinch of salt until stiff peaks form. Stir 1/4 of the egg whites into the base to lighten it. Stir in the pesto and cheese. Pile the rest of the egg whites onto your base and fold in gently, cutting your spatula through the center of the whites then pulling it towards you and folding the batter over, rotating your pot as you do so. This won't take long. Don't worry if there are still white, fluffy pieces of egg whites. Under folding is far better than over folding.

Pour the batter into your mold and place on the middle rack. Immediately turn the heat down to 375 degrees. Bake 25-35 minutes, until still jiggly when tapped but set and a knife or cake tester in the center comes out clean. My oven takes 35 minutes. I prefer a soufflé that is still slightly runny in the very center, so I often only bake it 30 minutes.

Serve immediately.

Humble Heart Farms "French" chevre from the Sunday Chattanooga Market (my new favorite, it's amazingly creamy)

Chattanooga, TN Food Trucks: Famous Nater's, taco sherpa, Monkey Town Donuts, & Pure Sodaworks

So. I recently discovered the burgeoning food truck scene in Chattanooga. My first thought was along the lines of: “Chattanooga has food trucks?! Since when...? This is unmitigated awesomeness.”

I’ve pined for food trucks in Chattanooga ever since I spent some time in Portland, OR living off its thriving food truck scene back in 2008. These mobile kitchens, serving creative, fresh food, add to the vibrancy & texture of a city. They make downtown positively tapestry like. Like memories of an ice cream truck's lilting calliope & the hot salty sugar smell of carnivals and parades, food trucks are festive. The smells of donuts frying, slow cooked pork, burgers on a grill, spicy Korean BBQ, and Argentinian empanadas all permeated downtown on Friday as the food trucks congregated at Miller Plaza for the Fresh On Friday market, where you can also buy yourself a meticulous, technicolor bouquet for $10, get a cake pop, and an organic soda flavored with everything from jalapeño to hibiscus to lavender.

Snagged by the promise of a guilt free donut, I tried Monkey Town Donuts last summer at the Chattanooga Market. Wheat donuts cooked in soybean oil, they have only 180 calories and 2.5 grams of fat per half dozen serving. They tastes like this is an evil lie, but it isn't. It's true. They are revelatory donuts (in so far as a donut can be revelatory, which, you may not know, is quite far). I often lamented their seeming scarcity, ever craving more. As a matter of fact, I’m craving them right now. They are small, crispy on the outside & soft on the inside, tossed liberally with cinnamon sugar, and come to you in a white paper bag. Unless you get a bucket, in which case, they come in a bucket. Yes, a bucket. I actually find looking at the photos of them painful it makes me want a dozen a donut so badly. I hope it has the same effect on you, and that you, in turn, go buy some donuts. So that the donuts flourish forever and ever, wild and free.

@famousnaters

The same hunger pang is felt when I look at the photos of that pork sandwich, strawberry jalapeño soda, and those Korean BBQ tacos pictured below too. I tried Famous Nater’s for the first time on Tuesday (Food Truck Tuesday at Warehouse Row from 11-2), and I really cannot state this strongly enough: one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever had. Seriously. I’m running around like a pork sandwich evangelical telling everyone I know that if they haven’t already, they have to try one post-haste. The 12 hour braised pork topped with crisp shaved carrots that tastes of soy, rice wine vinegar, chilies, and sesame on a soft Niedlov’s bun has a sense of urgency about it. Once you eat it, you must eat more. It is juicy and fall apart tender, like no other pork sandwich in the city, I assure you. It came with a side of lightly pickled vegetables. They kept perfect company with the sandwich, and I piled them on top, pairing even more crunch & acidic notes with the unctuous pork. As I dutifully snapped photos before eating, a man offered to show me what it looked like with a big bite taken out of it. I bet, buddy. Get your own.

so promising and then...

bam. sandwich of unmitigated awesome.

I love donuts. I love pork. What else do I love? Tacos. Street tacos, specifically. I’m kind of a taco snob, I’ll admit. If one can be snobby about a thing such as tacos, which seems a bit of an oxymoron, tacos being the epitome of unpretentious food. I’ve had a long standing love affair with La Alteña & Taco Roc, but Taco Sherpa, offering Korean BBQ tacos, offers Chattanoogans a whole other realm of taco possibilities. Spicy, sweet, crispy, juicy, tender: all of these words suffice to describe their variety of tacos. Also, they have cookies. Made with local eggs! I think I’ve made it clear how I feel about local dairy. Like with all the other trucks, there is no one offering up this kind of food anywhere else in town. I, for one, am grateful that there’s a place to get it now.

All of these savory, sugary edibles are going to make you thirsty: fact. Solution: Pure Sodaworks. I am intensely enthusiastic about creative flavor pairings. And Sodaworks has creative flavor pairings down. It’s one thing to get crazy and make a strawberry jalapeño soda; it’s another thing entirely to make a radtastic one that a non-soda drinker such as myself will love. I have a Diet Dr. Pepper habit but that’s like having a cigarette habit to me; I don't do it because I like it, I need it. It’s nasty; it’s a crutch; I wish I’d quit. These sodas exist entirely in another category far, far removed from the corn syrupy, chemical laden mainstream sodas. Sodaworks makes theirs simply, with organic cane sugar and carbonated spring water. In addition to the flavors pictured, they also have an apple pie flavor in the works and a honey lime. Soon to open up a brick & mortar location down in Coolidge Park, once bottled their sodas will be sold by some of the food trucks and Market St. Tavern (that's what I know of). I’m trying the lavender mint next. Lavender in food stuffs rules. Very evolved.

@puresodaworks

flavors: root beer, strawberry jalapeño, ginger ale, hibiscus lemon, and lavender mint

strawberry jalapeño organic soda

Small and locally owned, often sourcing their products from local farms and artisans, they directly contribute to the local economy. A truck can be a way for people that lack the capital to open a full service restaurant to bring their talents and passion for food to the public in a financially viable way. But make no mistake, this isn’t some casual endeavor: these people, often with culinary training, are serious about food. They work hard. Really hard. Cooking food in a truck day after day isn’t easy, but it’s a labor of love. If you don’t believe me, go eat the food. Then you’ll believe me. Because it tastes like love, delicious oxytocin, dopamine rich love. Yeah.

That was all pretty effusive, I know. I get that way about food. It won’t be the last time. I haven’t had a chance to try all the trucks around, but do not doubt that I will eventually. And when I do, you’ll certainly hear about. A lot. Because I’m verbose. And excitable.

Wondering how to find the food trucks? Follow them on Twitter, and they'll keep you posted about their whereabouts. Food trucks are decidedly urban. It’s a business model that thrives on population density, and Chattanooga isn’t the densest of cities. This means that it is up to us to enthusiastically support these small businesses that in turn feed us delectable street food previously unheard of around here. Keep it up Chattanooga. You're getting super delicious.